Doodh patri - meadows with glacial rivers that look like milk
The next day we were alloted a new driver. He was a 25 yo Gen Z, dynamic, well informed (and good-looking driver..he he, Zeeshan). He was atypical because he did not once try to promote a restaurant or emporium or walnut place or outlet to purchase wares. He was savvy - knew when to give his opinion and when not to. Gen Z also meant that he was busy most parts with his phone - either talking (business deals) in high decibel Kashmiri or clicking pics for his instagram account.
We proceeded to Gurez Valley (it is currently being promoted as part of border tourism, encouraged by the Govt). Its a valley with a small population and numerous villages - the villagers live closely with the military who occupy most part of it. This place shares its borders with PoK. Before we got there we visited Wular Lake. We entered Gurez via the Razdaan pass (snow capped at 11000 ft above sea level)
Both the Wular lake vantage point as well as the Razdaan pass had magnificent views. While the former was lush green and summery, the latter was still witnessing winters with snow and cold temperatures. The teen spent time at Razdaan carving the snow angel while P was busy posing for some influencer. We grabbed late lunch before we touched Gurez as there are few and far spots to grab a bite. Our much delayed lunch was around 6:00 pm at a stall which served maggi by an apple tree which had blossomed early. The best place to halt for lunch would ideally have been Peer Babha but we missed it in our enthusiasm to experience the unexpected snow.
Presence of military, CRPF, Seema rakshaks, J&K police, Border security forces, Special task force throughout Kashmir made our trip safe. This was primarily the case because we landed there during loksabha elections. This was the first election that the UT was witnessing after 2019 abolishment of Article 370 that had earlier given it special status and laws. Locals seemed happy and accepting of the abolishing of the article. They said militancy was under control and there were seeing a lot more tourism. Kashmir does depend on tourism for their economy to function smoothly. They see religious tourists (Amarnath,Vaishnodevi), winter sport tourism, Tulip garden tourism, summer & winter vacationers, tourists interested in apple and other fruit blossoms, autumn etc. So there is never a dearth of tourists.
Well, Gurez is known for cultivation of Rajma and Zeera (an expensive and super fragrant variant quoting at 7500/- INR per kg). We picked up Rajma which seemed motley, apprehensively (since it was not cleaned, processed or packed) but I ought to acknowledge that they turned out perfect. We picked it from a local shop called Basheer's. Gurez has a small market area with few shops. We stayed at Wood Vibes (@Dawar). A hotel with basic facilities - clearly nowhere aesthetic. The decor was loud. The temperatures ranged between 2deg to 14deg. Our room was super cold and so we were mostly wrapped up in electric blankets when we were in the room. The food at Wood Vibes was palatable - the rajma and paratha were tasty - the rest passe. Here we had quite a few tourists for company as there are not too many places to stay @ Gurez. Mostly from Maharashtra, Gujrat, Kolkata. I guess they have the spunk to rough it out. The terrain in Gurez is unlike what we saw on our way here. It is rocky, dusty and treacherous. There are barbed wires in multiple places laid out by the military. Yet it is beautiful - it has its own charm. The Haba khatoon peak (named after a poetess) stands firm, arid and was visible from our place of stay. Our stay at Gurez was spent trekking over the Haba khatoon peak with its chashma (springs), sunset point enroute to which we had an eventful drive - the 4 wheel drive around Gurez was driven into a trench and so we missed the sunset :( But we got there a little later nonetheless. Early on that morning we visited a few villages viz Barnai and Sheikhpora. Both had a characteristic charm with their wooden log houses, fields, streams and mountains all around. We had a chat with the hospitable villagers who showed us around their homes and offered us cha - which we politely declined.
@ Wular Lake Vantage Point
Clarkia blossoms
Enroute to Gurez
At Razdaan pass enroute to Gurez valley
@11000 ft asl @ Razdaan pass
Barnai village @ Gurez Valley
with erstwhile post master Khan and his dil + grandchild
There are only a few cafes/restaurants at Gurez. One run by the military that we visited which served excellent beverages and a few passable snacks - rolls, sandwiches and noodles (could have been better). We rolled out of Gurez valley the next morning and were told there has been a slight change in itinerary. Because of elections, the CRPF had moved into the Chandigam property that we were to occupy the next 2 days. Instead we were re-routed to a more pictureque property by the glacial stream called Reshwari. The challenge here was that the property was not quite geared for us - a non challant, disinterested caretaker, no other tourists. While it was clean a lot of the fittings and furniture seemed damaged - broken, cracked. The only mirror in the bathroom was placed at a height of 5ft + and measured 12"x12"....possibly meant for a pathan (*rolling eyes*)
While I speak of this out of the blue, it does deserve a mention. The washrooms in most places had Indian loos which were far cleaner. We wondered why there were higher proportion of Indian loos than Western in this part of the world - one thought that crossed our minds was that during the cold winters it is easier to keep the butt of a cold seat!!! the other thought was that it is easier to use it when one is draped in reams of material (burkha)...so well, after a bit of research here's what I learnt - Due to doing namaaz their Hip joints are flexible..so indian toilets work for them. Infact even in Mumbai we have few Muslim acquaintances/ friends who have an alternate Indian loo in their homes
Like the book Ichigo ichi states - make the most of every moment as it will never come again. Seize the opportunity and so we did! The caretaker of the property where the CRPF had occupied, Hameed, came down to Reshwari to guide our clueless caretaker, Nisar. I must appreciate the tasty kahwa, tea and mixed veg he served us. The rest, well well well, the lesser said the better. But well, we took all that on our chin and made ourselves as comfortable as we possibly could. It also meant that for one of the meals, we had to go shop for the veggies ...lol. It was an experience. The scenic beauty and location of this place more than made up for the shortcomings.
Hameed decided to accompany us on our tour around Chandigam, Lolab valley. He promised us we will enjoy our 2 days there. And yes we did! We visited Kala roos (caves which are believed to lead to Russia...haha). We had to trek up to these caves and were accompanied by Gulzar bhai, a local. He knew his way around the mountains and although we turned up there post 11am with the sun beating down on us, the trek was enjoyable and so were the caves and the little snippets of information he provided kept it interesting. He encouraged us to blow dandelions like Anushka Sharma, made us sniff fragrant oregano, pointed out the deodhar, pines. He also showed us the barks stripped off by the bears to access the acacia (locally called Kikkar) sap. It almost looked like glue. A curious question by us about the plastic crap on these barely visited trails led to him explaining that it is not the tourists but the locals (as many as 40000 land on these trails during Id) who litter. He went on to justify that locals like him collect the garbage once every fortnight (to be honest, I found that difficult to believe).
The highpoint of this trek was that it was followed by a homely traditional lunch at Gulzar bhai's home cooked by his daughter, Rukhiya. The food was served in traditional thram style - a copper bowl in which was served rice, rajma, walnut chutney, saag. Each more delicious than the other. We stuffed our mouths (why ever not, we had trekked all the way up and down with the sun beating down upon us).
We followed it with home grown strawberries and kahwa. The strawberries were actually sweet unlike what we urbanites in Mumbai are used to. The Kahwa was the most delicious beverage I had in a long while. In the steaming hot kahwa they added freshly roasted maize flour. Wow wow wow! Had they served it prior to lunch, I would have gulped down a few more portions. But by now we were stuffed !!! :)
We thanked him for his hospitality and parted ways to be escorted by Hameed to Chandigam valley. He knew the place like the back of his hand as that is his place of residence. We wandered around the ponds, paddy fields and the pine forests taking in the beautiful landscape. These spots were almost isolated free from the city humdrum, traffic and crowd.
After Gurez we hardly found any tourists - on the way or at our destinations. Another high point about our stay at Reshwari was our visit to a village called Chaath mohalla. Each time we bumped into a local in these small towns they graciously invited us home for a cup of chai. Mostly we did not take them up on that offer and politely declined. Afterall we were in a territory which until recently has seen a lot of militancy and turmoil. Underlying dynamics are not known and with our grand luck, we ought not to be the ones to try our hand at it. While our next morning was slated for a trip to Bangus valley, the military forbade us due to a landslide - elections etc. A reason to be back up here...someday
Reshwari @ Bangus
Kaala roos @ Chandigam
@ the mouth of the caves Kala Roos...
Claw marks of the Bear which loves the sap of this tree
....its gum like (acacia)
Pin this one folks - its the point where P was enlightened
(see the light emanating from the heavens?!)
Lolab (land of love and beauty) valley at Chandigam...paddy
Reshwari -
the bridge that links the TRC to the quaint village Chaath mohalla
After a 2 night stay at Reshwari we left for Dewan Bagh - Apple orchards home stay. To get there we passed through the streets of Kupwara, Baramulla, Sopore, Sumbal. Some of these have been militancy hotspots in the past but our commute was uneventful. We witnessed many election campaigners - representing different political parties. God has always been with us :)
Election campaigning...how much load can an MHCV take ...aha aha
(no research required - Ashok Leyland, Tata motors...watch!)
The property at Dewan bagh was very well kept and well rated. It was aesthetically done and the staff was smart and efficient. They had their act together. The property has apple orchards with trees viz plum, cherries and pears too. It was right across a gushing stream and had some beautiful, melodious birds chirping away - the blue whistling thrush, the yellow billed blue tailed magpie, cantankerous myna, common cuckoo, cuckoo to name a few. The evening we got there we visited the Kheer Bhavani temple and shopped around the temple precincts for some local artefacts and weaves. They were available at a good bargain. The temple is heavily guarded by the CRPF. There are very few temples left in Kashmir and so draw the local hindus and tourists. The next morning we went out for a morning stroll to check out the locality and were welcomed by the staff of an apiary. He explained that it is a moving apiary. Currently placed here as the bees draw nectar from Acacia (Kikkar
) blossoms. When we were there he was planning the extraction process. He offered us some freshly extracted (unprocessed, uncleaned honey). We like eager beavers went along and purchased a small lot from him. It is delicious and as pure as pure can get
Dewan Bagh Apple orchards - homestay near Sopore
Apple orchards had plums, pears and cherry trees too
Nashpati (Pears)
Chinar leaf, a fallen unripe cherry, mulberry
Kheer Bhavani temple
(one of the few remaining temples in J&K)
Fragrant flowers from the Acacia (Kikkar tree) that the bees use to make honey
We picked a jar for home and is it yummy!!
Scene at the Apiary...just prior to bee extraction process
Our trip was drawing to a close as we got back to Srinagar. We left Dewan Bagh with a heavy heart. Our next halt was a home stay at Srinagar called Greystone. A huge and beautiful property with only 2 rooms. The family is building few more outhouses to house guests.
We had the most royal stay here. It opens up to the vast expanse of snow capped mountains, apple orchards. It took nearly an hr to get there from the main city. The hosts were very hospitable. We had the best views ever! We spent most time in and around the property. Needless to say they had their own fruit and vegetable patch, expansive lawns, beds of beautiful colorful flowers.
A few hours the next morning were spent on the Shikhara to experience the floating market, then a trip to Shankaracharya and then some local shopping and purchases. Dinner that night was at Aadoos. The food was tasty. P opted for the tram so he could taste all the local fare - rishta, gushtaba, tabak maaz, yakhni. We opted for kashmiri veg pulao and alu bukhara (a sweet and sour dish made with apricots). The young one had malai tikka. The food was delicious mostly but the rice in the thram was a let down.
Shikhara ride in the wee morning hours @ Dal lake
Color splendor in the Dal lake
Floating market on Dal lake
@ the Shankaracharya shrine, just outside the sanctum sanctorum
Fort Hariparbhat @ Srinagar
Greystone homestay @ Srinagar
Sunrise @ Greystone
The last day we had brunch at Cafe delice - a good place for warm beverages and baked fare - the croissants, french toast, coffee and desserts - carrot cake, tiramisu, fruit pastry were all very wholesome and delicious. The chicken sandwich which we parceled as we were not very hopeful about a meal on the flight back home, was a let down. It was a typical case where last evening's stuff is passed off as takeaways :(
After a lovely holiday we were home....home sweet home. The paradise remains etched in our memory as a recent dream- a colorful and enjoyable one - one that exudes warmth, hospitality, thrill, good company, a lovely time loving and being loved.
For those who have always wanted to know what the itinerary comprised, pls refer to the table below. For queries you can always drop a comment and I will respond.....tada
|
Day
|
Description
|
What we did
|
Stay
|
Contact details
|
|
1
|
Landed at Srinagar from Mumbai
|
Visited the Chashma Shahi, Botanical gardens, Café Linz
|
Homestay Khanda Kothi
|
email me
|
|
2
|
Srinagar
|
Doodhpatri - the valley and the glacial waters sightseeing
|
Homestay Khanda Kothi
|
email me
|
|
3
|
Srinagar to Gurez Valley
|
Spent time at Razdaan pass to make the snow angel
|
Hotel Wood Vibes @Dawar
|
email me
|
|
4
|
Gurez Valley
|
Gurez Valley to Village Barnai, Sheikhpora via Manasbal(did not spend time there) Shopping for Rajma (and
jeera) at Basheers, coffee at Log Hut Café
|
Hotel Wood Vibes @Dawar
|
email me
|
|
5
|
Gurez Valley to Reshwari
|
Via Razdaan Pass, halt at Peer Baba for lunch
|
TRC at Reshwari
|
email me
|
|
6
|
Reshwari @ Bangus
|
Sight seeing @ Chandigam, Lolab - ponds, paddy and pine forests. Trek
to Kaal roos and a yummy home cooked traditional Thram style meal with Kahwa
to complement it @ Gulzar bhai and Rukhiya's home
|
TRC at Reshwari
|
email me
|
|
7
|
Reshwari to Dewan Bagh
|
Doodhpatri - the valley and the glacial waters sightseeing. Visit to Kheer Bhavani temple and shopping around for artefacts to take back home
|
Apple orchards
|
email me
|
|
8
|
Dewan Bagh to Srinagar
|
Dinner at Aadoos (Srinagar). Shopping for Kahwa, nuts, gulkand, tikki masala and
Walnut fudge).
|
Greystone homestay
|
email me
|
|
9
|
Srinagar
|
Brunch at Café Delice (Boulevard near Nishat Mughal gardens). Local
sight seeing - Shikhara ride with floating market in the wee morning hours,
Shankaracharya, Hari parbat
|
Greystone homestay
|
email me
|
|
10
|
Exited Srinagar for Mumbai
|
|
|
|
I end this post with this poem which echoes our sentiments.....
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